Several years ago, with retirement approaching and my remaining relatives in the UK already in their mid-to-late 80s, it became self-evident that my visits to Europe would sooner or later become much less frequent. Since there were quite a few species that I hadn’t seen in the intervening four decades, I decided to make a effort to see as many as possible of the birds I grew up at least one more time. While this effort was mostly focused on British birds, I was also interested in catching up with other western European species I has seen on my first trips abroad.
Originally my plan for May 2025 was to visit Fair Isle, Britain’s most famous birding location, which I had never visited while living in the UK. However, issues with finding accommodation on the island due to the bird observatory being rebuilt nixed those plans and I decided to reallocate the two weeks of birding to a trip to Spain. My long-time UK birding friend, Paul Thompson, agreed to join me but some conflicts meant he could not arrive until the last 6 days of the visit.
I last visited Spain in July and August 1984 and saw most of the classic species such as bustards, larks and eagles. I had a couple of bits of unfinished business: First, my views of Spanish Imperial Eagle had been rather distant and I had not be able to locate in the scope. As a result, I desired better views where I could see the plumage features well. Second, I had decided that a nightjar I had seen and heard was no longer countable as my only Red-necked Nightjar. It most likely was, but I wanted to get an unimpeachable record. In addition to these two species, I put together a list of about 90 species I wanted to see. These were almost all species that are regular in Spain but not not in the UK, but included some regular UK species that are now increasingly difficult to see there, such as Nightingale and Turtle Dove.
Female White-headed Duck
After arriving in Madrid on the afternoon of May 20, I drove SSE to stay in Alcazar de San Juan. The next morning, I got up early and headed down to a wetland surrounded by rolling wheat fields called the Tablillas del Záncara.
One of my key targets here was White-headed Duck and I was very pleased to see several of these at close range as soon as I got out of the car. Both Pochard and Red-crested Pochard were present in the open water areas, as well as a spiffy breeding-plumaged Eared (Black-necked for the Brits) Grebe and a few Little Grebes. Several Marsh Harriers hunted over the whole area.
Eared (or Black-necked) Grebe
An incessant reeling song from the nearby reeds revealing a Savi’s Warbler perched up near the top of stem, its mouth agape. This is a species I saw just once while in the UK in Kent, during its last years as a regular breeding bird there. I only saw it a couple of other times elsewhere in Europe and W Asia and so was delighted to enjoy such good views. I later found several others and they are obviously common at this site. Great Reed and Reed Warblers were very conspicuous in the same habitat, with Zitting Cisticolas around the edges.
A walk up the edge of the wetland to the north brought me to some shallow water and open mud habitat. Unfortunately, this far south, I was too late for migrant shorebirds, but Common Ringed and Kentish Plovers and Black-winged Stilts were present. By far the highlight were two Pin-tailed Sandgrouse that came into drink for at least 15 minutes.
Spanish Sparrows were abundant along the wetland edges with over 200 seen. I enjoyed good looks at the colorful classic Mediterranean trio of Roller, Bee-eater and Hoopoe, as well as Corn Buntings and a Little Owl. A stroll down another track alongside the main reedbed with scattered willows on the other side failed to turn up the hoped-for Penduline Tit and I had to be content with only hearing Nightingale and Turtle Doves. However, Whiskered Terns and Greater Flamingoes were some nice compensation.
Around 11 AM, I was ready to move on to the coast of SE Spain, a four hour drive away.
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