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Spain, Winter 2026: Before the Rain

 


Some months ago, I happened to be reading an article about Cardiff Airport in Wales Online and one of the reader comments mentioned how poor Cardiff was in flights compared to Bristol Airport. This was news to me, having left the UK before the explosion of low-cost airlines. I immediately checked into the situation and found that there were flights to many cities in Europe from Bristol and that these were typically a bit cheaper than flying from Heathrow. In fact, if you were prepared to fly with no change of clothes, as my birding friend Chris Lamsdell amusingly put it, the flights were much cheaper.

I decided to take advantage of this during future trips to see my relatives in Bristol and hatched a plan for a late winter trip to Spain to catch up with the three species I had tried for and missed the previous year, as well as add various woodpeckers, Lammergeier and Wallcreeper. I allowed for nine full days because of potential issues finding the woodpeckers and, of course, Dupont’s Lark.

I flew into Barcelona. My original plan was to try for Wallcreeper the first morning and then drive all the way to Pamplona for an afternoon shot at the woodpeckers. I spent the first night in Lleida, which was close to a Wallcreeper site. Despite a late arrival there, I decided to check the forecast and discovered that I had three days of good weather before a set of rainstorms came in. Flashbacks to my first ever foreign trip back in the early 1980s to the French Pyrenees immediately occurred. On that trip, despite it being July, we arrived in the Pyrenees and suffered two days of non-stop rain. In fact, we had given up and just started to pack the tent contents when a patch of blue sky appeared along with a Griffon Vulture. We decided to stay and enjoyed a couple of days of great birding.

I became concerned that Lammergeier might be impossible to see once the rain set in and so considered trying for it after looking for Wallcreeper. The morning Wallcreeper hunt consumed three hours and was mostly a bust aside from a bunch of Griffon Vultures, some Crag Martins and a pair of Bonelli’s Eagles. The area I had planned to look for Lammergeier (Bearded Vulture for my America audience) was too long a round trip for me to do that and to comfortably get to Pamplona that night. However, during the trip research, I had noted that the species was regularly seen at the Sierra de la Gurra. The site there was only about an hour and twenty-minute round trip detour from my route so I decided to try that, as well as have a second bite at Wallcreeper at Riglos. The woodpeckers would now wait until the next day.

As I ascended the road up the Sierra de la Guara, I picked out more Griffons and then had good looks at a Short-toed Eagle. Arriving at the pass, more than 20 Griffons were in view in a single scan, with some very close. It didn’t take too long for my first look at a Lammergeier, but I soon discovered that this species was tending to glide along the ridges and was not very inclined to circle higher above my head like the Griffons. I had several reasonable views but the birds were quickly gliding away almost as soon as I got on to them. I decided to walk a track running alongside one of the ridges. This paid off quickly as I had a subadult Lammergeier come into view quite low over the ridge. It even circled a couple of times to give me even better looks. Further exploration along the track yielded two Lammergeiers in flight at once.

The towering cliffs at Riglos

At this point, I felt I was unlikely to see one better and moved on to Riglos. Given my late afternoon arrival, I wasn’t that surprised to find no sign of any Wallcreepers, but at least I was able to familiarize myself with the site. Birds included a Peregrine and the ubiquitous Griffons, Crag Martins and a Red Kite.

The next morning, I left my hotel in Pamplona pre-dawn to drive up to a good area for woodpeckers. Upon arrival at the site, I discovered that I didn’t have any playback capability for the target species and that I had no internet access up there! After a futile hour and a half during which I failed to see or hear a single woodpecker, I drove back down towards Pamplona to get some reception and download vocalizations and drumming.

Since the connections were slow, it took some time for the downloads. While doing these, I decided to try a different location – Bertizko Jaurerriko Parke Naturala – which allegedly had all of Spain’s breeding woodpeckers. I arrived there around 10 AM and birding was more lively with Firecrest and Goldcrest quickly seen along with a flock of Red-billed Leiothrix, which are widely established in the Pyrenees now. Interestingly, I initially identified the leiothrix by call from having just heard them in Hawaii, where they are also introduced! Some initial Middle Spotted Woodpecker playback quickly stirred up a drumming Great Spotted. A little further on, I heard a call that sounded similar to the Middle Spotted Woodpecker playback I had been using and sure enough, it was one – a nice male that showed reasonably well. I then proceeded further up the stream valley but other than the odd Iberian Green or Great Spotted Woodpecker, I had no sight or sound of their rarer cousins. I did get to add Dipper and Marsh Tit to my Spain list.

After a couple of hours of this futility, I decided to head back to the first site I had checked in the morning. The most direct route was via some back roads that took me quite high into the foothills. An initial stop turned up a nice male Cirl Bunting and I eventually hit some nice mature beech woods that looked pretty good for White-backed Woodpecker. At my second stop in these, I heard a Black Woodpecker calling in flight some distance away. Cranking up some playback eventually resulted in a fly-by view and then a decent look at one perched on a trunk for some time. It turned out that there were two birds. It was interesting to see how far some of the woodpeckers would overfly the playback, seemingly by a couple of hundred yards at times. Whether that is just how they behave or because I was playing at too high a volume and confusing them is currently unclear to me.

I got back to the original site and had very little luck with any woodpeckers, despite some temporary excitement at hearing a White-backed Woodpecker drumming close-by, which turned out to be my phone going off in my pocket! I decided to drive a little further up since there was a lot of rushing water noise at the e-bird hotspot location and found there were tracks into some really nice beech forest. Although, I had no success along one of the tracks, upon returning to the car, I ran into a Spanish bird photographer who confirmed that the woodpeckers were generally seen along these tracks, especially on the one along the other side of the road, which I had yet to try. A walk out along this second track did result in some drumming that sounded quite similar to a White-backed. However, I could not get a visual and gave up as the light deteriorated.

Once I got back from the mountains, I checked the weather forecast. I was delighted to see the wind and rain were not arriving until Thursday afternoon. That meant I could still spend all of Wednesday if needed trying for the White-backed Woodpecker before heading on to overnight near Riglos for another attempt at Wallcreeper on Thursday morning.


White-backed Woodpecker

Shortly after dawn, I was back up above Zubiri. I drove a little bit higher to start with. A check of some nice beech forest yielded another distant drumming woodpecker. Although it sounded wrong, I lugged up the slope merely to confirm it was just an Iberian Green Woodpecker. I was also trying to find a Eurasian Treecreeper, which are regular here, but only came up with Short-toed, which is the commoner of two even at this altitude. I then went back up the track where I had heard the drumming woodpecker the previous late afternoon. I got a response in the same area and walked round to get closer. At that point, I heard a distant Black Woodpecker call and began to wonder if it might have been source of the drumming. Fortunately, the next burst of playback brought the bird into view – a male White-backed Woodpecker, which proceeded to show well. In fact, I was able to show it to a couple of very happy Spanish birders who were walking down the track. Interestingly, I could never get any Black Woodpeckers to respond to the playback but the White-backed came back in to check out the Black Woodpecker drumming.

It was now late morning and an over two-hour drive to the Riglos area. I decided to take a longer route and check out a number of wetlands. I was hoping to see some large crane flocks as well as bolster my chances of hitting a minor goal of the trip, which was to reach 250 species in Spain. It transpired that there were many birds I had wrongly assumed I had already seen in Spain, such as Chiffchaff and Song Thrush, so I easily blew by this goal that day. I hit up three wetland areas. The first was pretty limited but a good spot for Tufted Duck, which I then naturally saw at the next wetland after this at well – the Laguna de Pitillas. This location was quite good with decent numbers of ducks – Mallard, Gadwall, Teal and Shoveler – along with nine Graylag Geese and plenty of Mute Swans. The inevitable Marsh Harriers and Red Kites were complemented by a male Hen Harrier, while Reed Bunting and Meadow Pipit were further Spain ticks, both of which I saw subsequently multiple times.

Laguna de Dos Reinos

I finished up at the Laguna de Dos Reinos. Wildfowl numbers were much smaller here, although the lake also had a few flamingos and an Avocet. Bearded Tits were pinging away on-and-off in front of the hide, but I couldn’t ever see one, an effort made a lot more difficult by all the Chiffchaffs popping in and out from the reeds. A bit more on-line sleuthing showed that many of the birds actually hung out in rice fields in the area, so I jumped back into the car and drove around a bit. I located a couple of fields with some birds, but not the great variety that had been reported a few days previously. I did have a nice fly-by of a flock of 95 Common Cranes. I went back to the laguna in the hope they would drop in there to roost, but they did not, at least not before I left. A male Merlin was a good addition to my Spanish raptor list and at least seven Marsh Harriers came into roost.

I eventually reached my hotel in a small sleepy town and woke up the next morning ready for another Wallcreeper effort. I reached Riglos by 8.00 AM and proceeded to follow the small tracks up to the base of the cliffs. I quickly found an obliging Alpine Accentor and then saw a Blue Rock Thrush – both regular species here that I had missed on my first visit. I decided to follow the base of cliffs along to the east this time, which required more of a steep scramble than I like these days. I finally reached the eastmost spot I could access. After proving ineffective previously, this time the playback resulted in a suspicious-looking bird popping around the corner. A bit more playback brought not one but two Wallcreepers back around the corner and they appeared to be having a bit of territorial dispute. Eventually one of the birds left and I was able to coax the other bird down even closer for really great looks. I found I had accidentally hit some button on my camera that resulted in a weird shooting mode and I now could not work out how to get out of. As a result, my pictures do not do justice to the great looks.

Wallcreeper

Looking at the forecast, I had enough time to get to the Belchite area for a quick lunchtime try for Dupont’s Lark before the rain hit. I spent about 50 minutes looking but didn’t see or hear one at all – hardly a shock, given how difficult this species can be. At that point, the rain arrived. I had already worked out that the best strategy was to drive straight down to the coast since the weather there would be a bit better for the next two days than around Belchite, where it would raining heavily the next day, followed by winds, which make Dupont’s really hard to see.

 

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