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Belated Mexico: The Usumacinta Floodplain

 

The Usumacinta rises in the highlands of southern Chiapas and flows north and east towards the Gulf of Mexico (Sorry Mr. President, but I really don’t like name changes for the sake of it, having suffered through the ridiculous flip-flopping on North American birds names the last three decades). There are extensive marshes along much of its lower reaches and these offer a whole range of species not possible in the dry Yucatan.

Leaving Calakmul a day early gave us a chance to spend a couple of days in the area rather than just short stops while traveling between Chiapas and Calakmul. We initially aimed to take the road to Jonuta, where we hoped to find a hotel for the night.

Camino Palizada, which leads to Jonuta, passes through seasonal wetlands that are mostly dried up by spring. We stopped at any remaining wet areas that held birds. One key target was Jabiru, which was a lifer for Paul and a Mexican tick for me. Jabirus are most common in the immediate aftermath of the wet season (Sep-Oct) when much of the Belize population decamps to the area. However, there are always a few around. My previous visit to this area in winter had failed to find any. This time our luck was in as at the first stop at a pond that held over 50 feeding Wood Storks, we found a Jabiru.

 

Jabiru

Further stops along the road turned up a number of Bare-throated Tiger-Herons and Fork-tailed Flycatchers but we had no luck with Yellow-headed Parrot or Aplomado Falcon, both of which I had seen on my previous visit. Any thoughts of returning along the highway in late afternoon to look for the parrots flying to roost were quelched by the poor state of the road, which had some very nasty cracks resulting from subsidence. There was no way I was going to try driving it at night.

Bare-throated Tiger-Heron

Arriving in Jonuta, we soon found a hotel. After cooling down in the air-conditioning, we decided to drive out on the road to Ciudad Pemex. This passes through more extensive marshes than Camino Palizada. Fortunately, the road was not as bad and we stayed out until dusk. Russet-naped Wood-Rails were quite frequent along the roadside and gave some killer views.

Russet-naped Wood-Rail

We found some large roosts in isolated areas of trees with over 600 Neotropic Cormorants and 47 Snail Kites. The icing on the cake was a bird we found dust-bathing in the road as dusk fell. We both struggled to work out what it was before I finally realized it was an Aplomado Falcon. Fortunately, it then allowed a slightly closer approach for better looks, although the light was too poor for photography.

The next morning, we were out along the road again with the intention of driving the whole length to Ciudad Pemex. Whenever we heard parrots, we would check them out but only saw a couple of White-fronted for sure. Given the large number of waterbirds we had witnessed the previous evening, I was optimistic about finding a Glossy Ibis, if we could get close views of some ibis. Eventually, we started to have one or two on roadside ponds.  The first couple were White-faced but the third was a Glossy – another Mexico tick.

Glossy Ibis

We again had good views of multiple wood-rails and racked up a total of 22 tiger-herons. We found four Pinneated Bitterns, a species we had missed on the first day. We did better for ducks, finding 80 Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, a species that has declined massively over the last few decades, and well over a 100 Blue-winged Teals.

Pinneated Bittern

We spent some time looking for rails and crakes. Purple Gallinules were easy enough to see, but the Ruddy Crakes proved quite a bit harder. Persevering with playback at various spots, we eventually tempted one out into the open for reasonable but brief looks.

Other than Northern Jacanas, of which we saw 250, shorebird diversity and numbers were limited. We were able to find several Double-striped Thick-knees in the fields along with both Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs. As we started to drive away from the area where we had seen the crakes, I mentioned to Paul that we really should be checking the drying margin of the wetland, mixing open dirt with patches of short grass, for Upland Sandpiper. We stopped and Paul immediately found one with his first scan! The bird was a bit distant and justified the fact we had brought a small travel scope with us to get better looks in such situations. We eventually found there were seven birds in all – a lifer for Paul and a Mexico bird for me.

We were not neglecting landbirds on the drive and typical savannah or floodplain species we saw were Pale-vented Pigeon, Plain-breasted Ground Dove, Scissor-tailed and Fork-tailed Flycatchers, Eastern Meadowlark and Yellow-tailed Oriole.

Fork-tailed Flycatcher

We were very happy with the decision to bail early on Calakmul and then moved on further up the river valley to Balancan. Here the floodplain was more limited but still extensive enough to attract many of the same species as well as a few additional ones. Specific targets here were Striped Cuckoo, Botteri’s Sparrow and Grassland Yellow-Finch. In the late afternoon, we headed out on the road to Laguna Sunina. Our first stop was an immediate hit with our second Jabiru and a couple of Botteri’s Sparrows. Heading further down the road, Grassland Yellow-Finch was proving frustratingly elusive, but we eventually got decent looks at one or two. The same area held another lifer for Paul in the form of Gray-crowned Yellowthroat and we enjoyed great looks at a flock of a dozen Fork-tailed Flycatchers.

Botteri's Sparrow

Immature White-tailed Hawk

The next morning, we tried some roads around El Arenal in the hope of finding a Striped Cuckoo. The search proved fruitless, but we did get better looks at Grassland Yellow-Finch. An established population of exotic Tricolored Munias proved to be an unexpected Mexico tick for me and as it warmed up, we hoped to find some raptors. In addition to a few Yellow-headed Vultures, we found three White-tailed Hawks and an immature Black-hawk species. The birding ended on a high note when we found an Aplomado Falcon perched up in a tree that gave great looks in perfect light.

Aplomado Falcon

After that it was time to head on to Naha in Chiapas. Since that required a fair amount of driving on dirt roads up into the hills, I wanted to complete the drive well before dark.

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